As a big-game hunter, I use binoculars a lot. However, I don't leave my binoculars at home when I trade a deer stand for a duck blind.
For the waterfowler, binoculars are invaluable for scouting locations and observing distant duck activity. You can identify the species and often what they are feeding on or why they seem to prefer a certain area from long distance with a good pair of binoculars.
Even in the blind, binoculars are very handy for checking out distant flight lines and seeing what is coming your way from a long way off. They are also good for spotting and marking a long-fall cripple for recovery.
For waterfowling, I prefer the higher magnifications of 8x or 10x with large enough objective lenses to be bright in low light. I also prefer the mid-sized models for a combination of comfortable use and ease of storage. Given the nature of waterfowling, your binoculars must be waterproof and weatherproof.

The shift from lead to steel shot continues to plague waterfowlers with confusion about proper pellet size. Because steel is less dense than lead, a steel pellet, say a #4, is lighter than a lead #4 pellet. The steel #4 carries less energy to start with and loses its velocity and energy faster than a lead #4. The general rule of thumb to retain roughly the same pellet energy delivery on a duck, is to go up one pellet size with steel. (A #2 steel pellet hits about as hard as a #4 lead pellet.)

However, the most noticeable differences between steel and lead show up at longer ranges. Waterfowlers who shoot only close-range decoying ducks and/or in tight timber situations probably don't need to go to bigger pellets.

If your waterfowling includes long shots at ducks, you might want to go further -- up to #BB steel. A BB sounds big for duck hunting, but the way steel pellets shoot, it provides extra power at longer ranges.

There are a number of wader styles and options. The basic styles are boot- or stocking-foot waders. Stocking-foot waders require additional wading shoes and are a bit more flexible. However, due to the muddy, mucky, debris-laden wading associated with waterfowling, most waterfowlers prefer boot-foot types.
Boot-foot waders come chest and hip high. Obviously, how deep you expect to get into your duck hunting determines how high your waders should be. However, there is something to be said for chest waders even if you never go into water above your knees. They provide for dry sitting and they are warm, particularly if insulated. Form-fitting neoprene chest waders are really nice in cold weather.

Field shooters usually don't need high-water waders. However most field shooting involves mud and some standing water. Very often knee-high all-rubber boots do just fine.

Always wear quick-wicking liner socks with rubber footwear. Rubber traps your own perspiration and without liner socks you'll get wet feet anyway.

You cleaned your duck gun at the end of last season didn't you? No? Shame on you. For this waterfowling season, you need to do a maintenance check on your duck gun. Duck hunting is often a dirty business and is tough on guns. If you start out with a cruddy gun, you can almost count on malfunctions, usually at critical moments, while shooting.

With modern ammo, bore corrosion is seldom a problem. It's everywhere else that gets gunked up -- particularly the action. Strip it down and clean it out. Use degreasing agents to soften up gummy deposits. Dig into tight spots with an old toothbrush and pipe cleaners. I sometimes use an air-pressure hose to really blow things out.

Autoloaders are quite reliable when properly maintained but are particularly sensitive to fouling in their mechanism. It's not the autoloader's fault if it quits autoloading because its critical components are filthy.

When the gun is clean, lightly lubricate it and you're ready to go.

The retrieving breeds are among the most biddable and easiest to train of all dogs. There are hardheads and knotheads, but generally retrievers want to please you, if they can figure out what pleases you.
Two words should guide all dog training: consistency and repetition. Always use the same command, the same signal and the same body posture when training. Repetition means frequent but not overly long training sessions. Consistency also means similar praise for good work and similar results for poor performance.
With headstrong dogs, never let them think that they can get the upper hand. You are the boss all the time. Just as with teenagers, they will test you often. Consistency, repetition and firmness -- not brutality -- are the answers.
In hot weather, a retriever's enthusiasm can cause him to go hard for too long. You're in charge of this too. Train in the early morning, keep cool water available and keep sessions short in hot weather.