Successfully calling deer is based on the deer's natural curiosity about other deer in its immediate area. However, deer are more curious at some times than at others.
Does with fawns, particularly in groups, are in their mothering mode and will often respond quickly to a fawn's distress bleat. Often it will be the dominant doe of the group that will rush right over to investigate.
During the pre-rut, bucks are becoming hostile and territorial. During this period, they are prone to investigate the grunt of a strange buck in their area. During the rut itself, a buck tending a doe is hard to pull off the scent, but a strong challenging grunt may make him want to protect both his territory and the doe. Bucks that aren't with does are very vulnerable to doe bleats during the rut.
During the post-rut, the bucks are once again highly competitive over any still-receptive does. Buck grunts and doe bleats continue to be very effective.

It is possible to hunt elk without binoculars but I sure wouldn

During the warmer parts of elk season, particularly bow season and early muzzleloader and rifle seasons, elk are very temperature sensitive. They are big animals and they've already started laying on fat and sometimes their winter coat.
Shade and water are the elk's equivalent of air conditioning. Hunters who go way up, above timberline, for early season elk should consider the absence of shade on very warm days and drop down into the trees.
The West is generally dry and water is critical to western wildlife all the time. A known elk watering hole is worth watching. Not only will the big bulls come to drink and perhaps wallow during the breeding season, they know the cows will come to water sooner or later.
Warm daytime temperatures also promote nocturnal movement. If it's hot while you are elk hunting be out at the crack of dawn and stay until the end of legal shooting light. In the middle of the day, look for shade and water.

There are few nastier surprises than to be putting out your decoys and feel ice water trickling down your leg. Modern waders are made from materials that are far more resistant to weather or air cracking than waders used to be but they still require sensible care for a long life. Store them in a dark, cool and temperature-controlled place. It is also a good idea to put them in an airtight plastic bag for long-term storage.
Check waders for leaks well before the season. Small tears or punctures can often be repaired. Look for wader repair kits in sporting goods stores and fly-fishing shops. They come in both full-scale repair kits and smaller kits for smaller jobs. A field repair kit is a handy item to keep in your blind bag if you snag your waders while hunting.
Air-cracked waders are usually a total loss. Even if you patch the current leak, other weakened areas will soon give away. Give them up and go shopping.

There are several approaches to summer scouting but they all should begin with topographic maps of your hunting area. Once you learn to read these maps you can "see" the land before you visit it. By scanning the contour lines you can find the hills, valleys, flat areas, ridgelines and those all-important "saddles" where a ridgeline dips and deer love to cross from one drainage to another.
What you can't see is the vegetation type, agricultural areas, and specific habitat features indicating high deer-use areas. You have to walk the ground to do that. You also have to invade the habitat to find deer trails, bedding areas and currently active food sources. You should do this well before deer season so as not to unreasonably disturb the deer just before trying to hunt them.
To get topographic maps, you can try local commercial map dealers (see the yellow pages) or contact the U.S. Geological Service by calling 1-888-ASK-USGS or visiting the Web site at www.usgs.com.